Basing my Infinity: Part 3

After posting my Pathfinder Dronbot up on-line, I got a lot of positive comments about the base it is mounted on. I figured I would do a small series of articles about how I go about making the bases for my Infinity models. This is the last of a series of 3 posts talking about my Infinity base toppers.

  1. Basing my Infinity: Part 1
  2. Basing my Infinity: Part 2
  3. Painting bases.

Hopefully I’ll show you how I went about creating the bases that I am using on my Panoceania models.

IB-3_013_finishedall

This article will go through the painting process for the bases. They say a picture speaks a thousand words. Thankfully this allows me to not have to type much, but this article is picture heavy!

Step 1: Undercoat

The bases were sprayed black , and then given a coat of light grey.

IB-3_001_undercoat

Step 2: Texture

I used a ripped up piece of blister pack foam to dab on a random pattern of paint onto the base. Using two different colours. First a  dark grey.

IB-3_002_texture1

And then a medium grey.

IB-3_003_texture2

Hopefully this looks more like concrete flooring.

Step 3: Not much to see here

Once dry the base was given a coat of gloss varnish.

Once the gloss varnish had dried the bases where then given a coat of AK interactive Worn Effects Liquid.

IB-3_004_glossy

Step 4: Painting the concrete floor.

Once the chipping fluid has dried I gave the bases a coat of paint, in this case using dark yellow.

IB-3_005_paint1

Then followed up with a quick subtle highlight using sand.

IB-3_006_paint2

Step 5: Chipping

Using an old knackered brush (a well and truly splayed paint brush 😉 ), dip it in water and gentle rub the paint. After a little work the paint will start to lift. If it doesn’t you can scratch a little of the paint away using something like a cocktail stick . Then go back to using the splayed paint brush, this will allow the water to get to the chipping fluid to enable it to dissolve that layer enabling the paint to lift. Work the surface gentle to achieve the level of weathering you want.

IB-3_007_weathered1

Once you are happy with the level of weathering you could give them a coat of matt varnish to seal them, preventing further unintentional weathering through handling the base. I haven’t done this, as I don’t intend to handle the bases much at all, and if I do I’ll be holding them around the rim away from the painted surface.

Step 6: Highlighting the chips

The chips on the bases are highlighted and shaded. For this to work you need to pick a lighting direction, and most importantly be consistent in its use across the base. The edges of the chip furthest away from the light are given a highlight of ivory sand.

IB-3_008_weathered2

The edges of the chip closest to the light are given a shade of dark grey.

IB-3_008_weathered3

The highlight/shade is stronger the closer the line is to being perpendicular to the direction of the light. The highlight/shade gets weaker to being non-existent the closer the chip edge gets to being normal to the direction of the light.

The image below is a rather poor set of photos of the same set of chips, the light direction is coming from the top right corner of the picture. So the highlighted edge of the chip is on the bottom left and the shades closest to the light source on the top right of the chips.

IB-3_008a_chips

Step 7: Metal work

I didn’t want to use metallic paint to represent the metal and my NMM (none metallic metal) techniques are non-existent, so I am saying all metal work has been painted grey. Hence I blocked the remaining areas of the bases in dark grey.

IB-3_009_blockgrey

Then a quick coat of dark mixed with medium grey leaving shading around the edges to separate these areas from the ‘weathered paint work’. Then medium and light greys were worked on to the base to finish the metal work. Finally the entire base is given a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone.

 

IB-3_010_paintgrey

Step 8: Lighting

The 40mm base has some recessed lights in it, or at least that’s what I think they are 😉

The light is given a nice coat of white paint. The area surrounding the light where I want the surface to reflect the light (otherwise known as OSL object source lighting) is given glaze of thinned white paint.

IB-3_011_lightswhite

The light is painted with the chosen colour, and that same colour is glazed over the previously white glazed area. Finally the light is highlighted up to white.

IB-3_012_lightspaint

Step 9: Finishing touches

The fan on the 25mm base has worn hazard stripes painted on it, as does the piping on the 40mm base. The stripes are initially painted brown, Idrian flesh in this case, then a yellow-orange. Chips are added in grey paint to match the under lying metal grey. These are then highlighted with a bright yellow, and shaded with a dark grey.

The cabling and connectors on the other 25mm base are painted, and some red ‘hazard signs’ to add a little detailing. Finally the edges of the bases are painted black.

IB-3_014_finishedsmall

IB-3_014_finishedmedium

Sorry his article has ended up a bit rushed, so if you have any questions use the comments below.

Paints Used

Paint colours used generally painting the bases:

Paints used for lights and finishing touches, although I may still be missing some:

 

Advertisements

2 responses to “Basing my Infinity: Part 3

  1. Pingback: Basing my Infinity: Part 1 | Splayed Paint Brush

  2. Pingback: Basing my Infinity: Part 2 | Splayed Paint Brush

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s